I really want one, it my favorite car!! I’m 13 so I can’t drive but I wanna know what it’s like to drive my favorite car for as long as I can remember. Also is the 350Z better than the G35 and S2000? I’m aware that the 350Z and the G35 both have vq35’s.
Hello, i just purchased a used CRV that came with a stock stereo. I want to upgrade it to the Sony XAV – AX100. What cables do I need? I purchased the
Metra Axxess ASWC 1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
Metra Radio Wiring Harness
Metra Honda Antenna Adapter Cable
What else am i missing? It seems that 1-2 cables will be unused. Can anyone tell me what they are for? imgur.com/a/dbCTx
The top white cable is for the emergency button
The big gray one is for the radio harness i just purchased.
The small one with the hole is for the antenna. What are the other 2?
I’m reading through recalls on vehicles recently but at the same time remember watching a few Youtube videos on car development. I believe one was with Volvo and they talked about how the amount of testing they do pre-production is equivalent to artificially aging the cars by about ten years. And you know, after watching some of the torture tests manufacturers do on their vehicles before they hit the market, you would think the final product would be mostly problem free, or at most have minor bugs.
That isn’t the case as we all know, and despite this testing we see major reliability issues popping up in vehicles even today. Some of these problems may affect safety, others may take years before they are detected, sometimes long after that particular vehicle/generation has been off the market.
I’m just wondering if there are issues with the testing regimes car manufacturers implement that lets these bugs slip through the cracks, or if sometimes no matter how much testing you still end up with a lemon.
So we’re currently insured through GEICO. In theory, we’re getting a great rate because I’m a member of the Florida Bar and they have a deal together. But in reality i’m paying roughly $3,000 every 6 months and I’m starting to think like that’s just too much.
We have three cars on the policy, all 2014 models – Infiniti QX60 AWD, Ford Escape Titanium, Toyota Camry SE. The three drivers are myself (30M), my wife (31F), and my father in law (68M). My mother in law (68F) is specifically excluded from the policy as she has never driven and does not have a driver’s license. No teenagers or other adults in the house or policy. My father in law just rear ended someone in the Camry, the other side left the scene so it was a collision only claim. My wife last August similarly rear ended someone, but it was a big hauler truck who didn’t even notice and left – again a collision only claim. Prior to that neither of them has had a ticket (still don’t) or accident in 5+ years. I have no accidents or tickets 5+ years but unfortunately my car was damaged by Hurricane Irma, so that was also a collision only claim. So between August of 2017 and February of 2018 we had unfortunately three collision only claims, all fixed at GEICO ARX shops.
Last time I renewed my policy was ~$2986. Now it’s about $3085. For 6 months… I understand it’s a fool’s errand to compare to other people’s situations and rates, so rather than ask “how much should I be paying instead” I wanted to list out our coverages and see what you all recommend I should do in that regard. Is it worth it skimping on some coverage areas to save $200-300 over a 6 month period?
Bodily Injury Liability – $100K/$300K
Property Damage Liability – $100K
Personal Injury Protection – Insured & Relative – $500 deductible
Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury – Nonstacked – $25,000 per person/$50,000 per occurrence
Comprehensive and Collision on all three cars – $500 deductible for each
Emergency Road Service and Rental Reimbursement for all three cars
The way GEICO breaks it down on the website, it’s $1,011.10 for the Camry, $1,007.10 for the Escape and $1,067.70 for the QX60. That’s between $168 to $178 per car per month. Doesn’t seem very high but damn when you put it all together, it adds up…
Let me know what you think. Thank you!
I drive an old car that looks like a beater and is not worth much in terms of “market value,” but I have maintained the engine & mechanicals very well and the car is worth a lot to me. Another driver hit my car while it was parked and did some damage. The other driver admitted fault (it’s properly documented in a police report) and his insurance company has informally accepted liability. Now his insurance company wants to send somebody to my house to spend an hour inspecting the exterior and interior of the car, taking a bunch of pictures, etc., so they can estimate the cost of repairs and the value of the car and decide if they think it’s a total loss. I would prefer the estimates and valuation to be performed by an independent, third party. Otherwise, the other driver’s insurance company will probably inflate the repair estimate, undervalue my car, declare it a total loss, and then I would be stuck either declining their offer and getting nothing, or accepting their offer and getting a paltry check that would come nowhere close to allowing me to buy a comparable car with such good maintenance history. Should I allow them to inspect it according to their terms? Or do I have a leg to stand on to insist on getting estimates from an independent, third party? TIA for your help.
Oil changes, brakes, spark plugs and all of those seem to be around the same price to do yourself or dealer. I have heard the same complaints from Japanese car owners of 300 dollar brake fluid changes and pricey brake pad changes.
Then I read about Subaru’s throwing rods and BRZ’s having massive quality control problems. Lots of 4 cylinder cars with turbos. Japanese car or German car blow a turbo its going to cost thousands.
What are these pricey repairs that German cars have that Japanese cars today don’t have? Both of these types of cars are loaded with electronics and turbos just waiting to go.
I was wondering if I could give someone my vin # and get a copy of the service history on a car I bought. My “local” dealership is like 60 miles away so i was hoping i could avoid the trip to there. Or can anyone tell me how i could retrieve it any other way? Thanks
Hi all, I have a question that needs some advise on. I live in California, I was involved in a not at fault rear-end accident. The car was total, and I end up with some spine injury and neck injury. I hired a personal lawyer to handle my personal injury claim. Their suggestion is to go after at fault party’s insurance policy and also my own auto policy as well. My immediate concern is what if insurance company hike up my rate next time? And lawyer said it should not affect my rate at all. I want to ask everyone’s opinion how should I go about dealing with this issue. Thank you very much in advance. I am looking forward to your reply.
Not sure if this is the right place to post this, just looking for some advice.
Posted my car on carsales yesterday, and I’ve had this enquiry.
” Thanks for getting back mate, I’m ok with the condition as described on the advert and your price as well. I work on North West Shelf in the Rowley Sub-basin in Perth and the reception here is terrible. We do not have access to phone at the moment,which is why I contacted you with internet messaging facility. This lovely car will be as a surprise!
Regarding the payment,I will be paying you through PayPal linked with my bank account, if you have a paypal account, all I will need will be your paypal email address, you can alternatively send your bsb acct name and number if you have no PayPal acct. I have also contacted my courier who will come for pick up and deliver it to Darwin after the whole funds has been cleared into your acct.
Sounds too good to be true, could ‘Leighton’ be a potential scammer?
So I have a health insurance plan with my family in which I have to pay $3000 before anything is covered and after that they only pay around 80%. I have around a $100,000 surgery coming up and I don’t have $20,000 to pay the remainder. Is there any way around any of this? Thanks
I’m kind of limited as far as the number of toolboxes I’m willing to haul out to the parking garage when I want to work on my car. The Craftsman 3/8″/1/4″ socket set I bought years ago has its own wonderful high-quality case, but all my other sockets (deep 3/8″, deep 1/2″, impact, deep impact, etc) are kind of thrown all willy-nilly in a toolbox. I lost my wheel lock key this way and it’s inevitable I’m going to lose sockets.
I also frequently haul tools to my parents’ house because I prefer to use their garage for bigger jobs.
Anyone else in the same boat? Anyone have a glorious apartment-tool-hauling setup that fits in a Miata that they can’t wait to share?
Bonus points if you can help me organize by box-end ratchets too.
Hello! My wife was in a minor single car accident 18 months ago. The total cost to repair the damage was 1,400. I made the mistake of going through insurance. I paid $500 and insurance paid $900.
Since making the claim my insurance has spiked so much that I have now paid an additional $1,100 towards insurance (compared to my previous rate). I had the cash on hand so I regret involving insurance at all.
Is there anyway to get this stupid claim off my record? Could I reimburse the insurance company what they paid and have them remove the claim from my history?
I’m not sure if this is the right sub but I’m going to ask anyways. I don’t know much about cars.
My girlfriend made a 300 trip yesterday on her 2002 Toyota Corolla and is low on gas. When she tried to turn on her car this morning, it didn’t even roll the engine, we just heard a faint electric clicking sound. I went over with a roommate and attached jumper cables to her battery. In about 20 seconds, the car turned itself on (all of us, including her with the key, we’re standing outside the car). She got in and put her key in as if she were starting the car, then took it out, and the car wouldn’t turn off. After some experimentation, we discovered that pressing the brake pedal turned off the car.
We applied jumper cables again, and after a short while, the car turned on the standard way using the key. She turned off the car and it won’t start again.
Can anyone explain this? What should we do?
I’m still waiting to see if the guy returns it, I currently have his key. However, if he doesn’t the dealership offered to make me a new key. This makes me nervous though because he would still have a key to my car and the VIN number is on a key chain attached to the key. Could he find out the owner of the car this way and potentially my address? Worst case if the guy did try to steal it could the insurance company not pay due to us knowing someone had a key? Should I force the dealership to rekey my car? What if the dealership just says no, what do I do then? I saved for years and have never made such a large purchase before and it may be stupid but this is giving me terrible anxiety. Thanks for the feedback